A Pilgrim's Progress
Here is a brief record of the places I went, and when, and what I saw,
and where I slept, and how I got there. (Kids, don't try this at home!)
By the way, if you want to find a temple by name, look here; by location, here.
Click the title below to read the account.
By the way, if you want to find a temple by name, look here; by location, here.
Click the title below to read the account.
- Trip 1: Zhejiang 1 (Hangzhou, Putuoshan, Ningbo) and Shanghai (August 18-26, 2009)
- Trip 2: Xi'an 1 (Near the city walls) (August 29-September 2, 2009)
- Trip 3: Jinan (April 3-5, 2010)
- Trip 4: Chengdu (May 14-17, 2010)
- Trip 5: Eastern Anhui and Jiangsu (July 20-30, 2010)
- Trip 6: Xi'an 2 (Outlying Areas) and Ningxia (October 13-20, 2010)
- Trip 7: Guangzhou (November 19 and December 21, 2010; March 12, 2011)
- Trip 8: Kunming (June 3-7, 2011)
- Trip 9: Beijing (July 8-16, 2011)
- Trip 10: Dongbei, Hebei, and Qingdao (August 24-31, 2011)
- Trip 11: Zhejiang 2 (Mountains and Wenzhou) (September 12-17, 2011)
- Trip 12: Fujian North (Fuzhou, Ningde, Fuqing, Putian) (October 22-29, 2011)
- Trip 13: Henan (October 31-November 5, 2011)
- Trip 14: Fujian to Guangdong (January 17-22, 2012)
- Trip 15: Chongqing (June 13-18, 2012)
- Trip 16: Anhui (June 20-30, 2012)
- Trip 17: Northern Guangdong (July 22-29, 2012)
- Trip 18: The Central Area (August 4-15, 2012)
- Trip 19: Shanxi (August 21-September 3, 2012)
Trip 1: Zhejiang 1 (Hangzhou, Putuoshan, Ningbo) and Shanghai (August 17-26, 2009)
Monday, August 17: 08:30 flight to Ningbo, to arrive 10:25; met by a driver (Mr. Fan) hired by my friends Tim and Wendi to take me to their place in Beilun
Stayed friends' house, Beilun, Ningbo
Tuesday, August 18: "Black taxi" to early bus from Beilun to Hangzhou; taxi to Lingyin Si (11:30-3:30; my #1), including the Feilai Feng grottos and a quick look up the hill (gateway of Yongfu Temple, area of Fayun Village); then another taxi to Jingci Si (4:00-5:15; my #2) and a quick shot of Leifeng Pagoda across the street; a bus back to Beilun, then "black taxi" to friends'.
Stayed friends' house, Beilun, Ningbo
Wednesday, August 19: Travel day: "Black taxi" to Beilun port; ferry; bus across Zhoushan Island; ferry to Putuoshan (landing about 11:25); hotel shuttle to hotel. Walked up to Puji Si, climbing hill near Fanshan Pavilion on the way, with views of beach etc. and gorgeous Duobao Pagoda outside (entire excursion 4:00-6:00), but didn't properly visit Puji Si until two days later. Had dinner (about 4:30-5:30) in fancy restaurant near temple.
Stayed Putuoshan - Purple Bamboo Hotel, Putuoshan
Thursday, August 20: Walking from hotel, approached Nanhai Guanyin, a huge statue (9:40-9:55). The whole area was quite crowded. Turned off to see a small temple, Xifang Jingyuan, including view of "Guanyin's Leap" (9:55-10:20). Then entered the area of Nanhai Guanyin (stayed until 11:20). Walked to two more small temples in the area: Zizhulin (arriving 11:30) and on past to Chaoyin Dong ("Cave of Tidal Sounds") and Bukenqu Guanyin Yuan (with wonderful statues of 33 Guanyin) (11:40-12:20). Then back and entered Zizhulin (12:20-12:40). Next, walked up to Puji Si bus area; island shuttle bus to cable car to Huiji Si (1:10-2:50; my #3). (A big, new temple was being constructed across from the base of the cable car.) Snacked and rested near entry, until 3:25. Walked down the "Xiangyun Road" past Xiangyun Pavilion (3:30-4:20) to Fayu Si (4:20-5:20; my #4). Island shuttle back to Puji Si area, and walked back to hotel.
Stayed Putuoshan - Purple Bamboo Hotel, Putuoshan
Friday, August 21: Walked from hotel (9:30) to Puji Si and its museum (10:00-12:15; my #5). Lunch in a fancy restaurant nearby; walked over to entry to "Western Paradise" (1:10-1:15), but no time to hike in. Shuttle back to Fayu Si (2:00-3:00) to pick up what I'd missed the day before. Shuttle to dock area (3:30) and walked to Nantian Men (a natural gateway) and Daguanpeng (a small temple) until 4:00. Hung out between there and the dock area until 6:00, walked back to hotel. Boat back to Zhoushan Island; taxi across island (to catch last ferry); ferry to Beilun port; called my "black taxi" who came after a long wait to take me back to my friends' place in Beilun proper.
Stayed friends' house, Beilun, Ningbo
Saturday, August 22: My friends Tim and Wendi kindly hired a car (the same driver who picked me up at the airport) and accompanied me to today's two temples: Tiantong Si (10:00-1:30; my #6) and the Zhongfeng Tayuan (a kind of cemetery for monks); then to Ayuwang Si (2:45-4:30; my #7), with a stop for lunch in a country restaurant in between.
Stayed friends' house, Beilun, Ningbo
Sunday, August 23: I slept a little late, then took a "black taxi" to the bus station and at 10:30 boarded a bus to the Jujube Tree restaurant in the center of Ningbo (arriving at 12:00). After lunch I walked to Qita Si (1:45-3:20; my #8). When trying to leave central Ningbo, I discovered that the bus queue was interminable, so I ended up taking a "black taxi" all the way back to Beilun.
Stayed friends' house, Beilun, Ningbo
Monday, August 24: Travel day: "Black taxi" to Beilun bus station, bus to Shanghai. Metro from bus station area to Jing'an Si Station, walked to hotel. Taxi to dinner at Malone's, walked home, shooting exterior of Jing'an Si on the way.
Stayed Starway Ganyuan Hotel, Shanghai
Tuesday, August 25: Metro to People's Square, looked around; buses to Chenxiang Ge (10:55-11:55; my #9). A quick walk over to Cheng Huang Miao (City God temple; 12:00-12:05), then a bus to Longhua Si (1:15-3:40; my #10). Buses to People's Square, Metro to Yuanming Jiang Tang (5:10-5:45; my #11) in time to catch a service. Walked back to Jing'an Si, where I shot the exterior (again) around 6:00. Subway Sandwich for dinner, then walked back to the hotel.
Stayed Starway Ganyuan Hotel, Shanghai
Wednesday, August 26: I walked back to Jing'an Si Station, where I finally saw the interior of Jing'an Si (10:00-11:35; my #12), which is under construction. Worried about time, I then took a taxi to Yufo Si (11:55-2:00; my #13). After a short break at the temple's "Zen Coffee" shop, I walked back to the hotel, picked up my bags, took a taxi to Jing'an Si Station, then took the Metro to the maglev train to Shanghai Pudong airport for flight to Shenzhen 18:15-20:45(?).
Trip 2: Xi'an 1 (Near the city walls) (August 28-September 2, 2009)
Friday, August 28: My wife Lila and I took this trip together. We flew to Xi'an in the morning (times unknown); on arrival we took the cheap (25rmb?) shuttle into town. There was a traffic jam in the north gate, so we got out of the bus and walked easily to our hotel. In the afternoon we went into the center of the city and saw the exteriors of the Bell and Drum Towers, etc. (3:20-5:50), and ate at Subway Sandwiches (which we did several times this trip).
Stayed every night at Motel 168 on Qingnian Road, inside the walls near Xi'an's North Gate.
Saturday, August 29: To be honest, I have no recollection what we did in the morning and early afternoon; but after all, it wasn't really a "templing" day. (Lila recalls that we slept in.) Anyway, using local buses, by 4:00 we had reached the exterior of the large Shaanxi History Museum, which we discovered had reached its quota of visitors for the day. We then walked to the park surrounding Daci'en Si and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, where we hung out from 6:30-7:00. By 7:50 we were night-shooting back near the city center.
Sunday, August 30: By 11:05 we were at Xi'an Train Station, where we caught a bus to the Terra Cotta Warriors. We arrived at 12:30, had lunch at a KFC there, and shopped a little before approaching the main buildings (1:15-5:15). That evening we had dinner around 8:00 at an Indian restaurant near the Big Wild Goose Pagoda.
Monday, August 31: After another leisurely morning, we took a half-hour stroll along the north and west walls until we reached the Tibetan-style Guangren Si (1:20-3:30; my #14). From there we walked down to "West Street" and took a bus to Wolong Si (4:25-5:10; my #15). As the visit was short, I planned to return another day; nevertheless, I said my prayers then in case I couldn't get back.
Tuesday, September 1: Starting a little earlier, we went to Daxingshan Si (12:15-2:10; my #16), and had lunch in their temple restaurant. Finally, we went inside Daci'ensi (3:45-6:00; my #17) where the Big Wild Goose Pagoda is located. Dinner was nearby, at the Small World Café.
Wednesday, September 2: Around 12:20 we went down to the South Gate area and looked at some of the shopping. Then Lila went to the Beilin (Stele Forest) Museum, while I returned to Wolong Si (12:40-1:40). Afterward we took a wander in the Muslim Quarter. Picking up our bags at the hotel, we caught the airport bus, then flew home.
Trip 3: Jinan (April 3-5, 2010)
Friday, April 2: Shenzhen-Jinan 15:05-17:25. Picked up by my friend and former student, Ven. Yan Ti, and taken to dinner with two monks and five government officers in a fancy Chinese restaurant. Head of Religious Affairs for Shandong asked me to move there and become an abbot. I said first I'd need to become a monk, and then ask my wife for permission (pointing at my ring). Big laugh. Long car ride through the countryside to Jining, where we stayed the night, arriving well after midnight.
Stayed Jining-Unknown hotel, booked by Ven. Yan Ti
Saturday, April 3: Breakfast at 8:30 with monks. On the dais before 10:00 for the groundbreaking of Chongde Si in Yangshan, Jinxiang County (exact site as yet unknown). Seated next to a celeb, a local boy (well, from Qingdao--same province) named Xu Shaohua (徐少华) who played the Tang monk in a TV production of "Journey to the West." Lunch around 11:00 with many monks. At first I was seated in a room with Tibetan monks, where meat was served. When I said I was veg, I was quickly moved back with my "old" friends from yesterday. This was followed by a return to the temple site at 2:00 for Shaolin Temple monks' performance. Dinner around 8:00 in hotel with monks and a Buddhist "pop star" named Gu Kai (顾凯).
Stayed Jining- the same unknown hotel, booked by Ven. Yan Ti
Sunday, April 4: By cars to Qufu for lunch first, then the home of Confucius (1:15-2:00), where I walked arm-in-arm with Gu Kai, the pop star, singing "Country Roads." Yan Ti was there, as well as Master Yong Qian (永乾), his master's Dharma brother (that is, Yong Qian was ordained by the same master as Yong Xin [永信], current abbot of Shaolin Temple). By 2:45 three monks and I were dropped at the bus station for the trip to Jinan, where we parted and I was on my own for a night. After checking in, I sought out an Indian restaurant south of Daming Lake Park, near the Muslim quarter, where I wandered after dinner, around 8:00. Two of the old mosques had what looked like "ghost walls" out front; also, there were lots of mutton grillers with beer ads on their signs. And I saw a woman in full burka!
Stayed Jinan Motel 168 (Puli Street Shop)
Monday, April 5: Taxi to Qianfoshan. The driver (a Buddhist) told me I'll have to climb a mountain to see Xingguo Chan Si (9:00-12:15; my #18). Afterward, at the bottom of the mountain, I discovered there was a ropeway! But I wouldn't have taken it; it was open like a ski lift - scary for a fat man! At 12:35 returned to the hotel to pick up bags at hotel, then took a bus to the airport before 1:30. At airport sometime before 4:15 for Jinan-Shenzhen flight 17:50-20:25
Trip 4: Chengdu (May 14-17, 2010)
Friday, May 14: The plan was to see four temples and meet up with old friend Franc and his wife Yuting; she's a Chengdu native and they were there to see her parents. Shenzhen-Chengdu 16:20-18:50 alone; Lila came in and joined me the next day. Several meals at KFC next to hotel.
Stayed every night at Home Inn (People Park Branch)
Saturday, May 15: Tried and failed to get the right bus, so took a taxi to Wenshu Yuan (10:00-1:35; my #19). Lila, Franc, Yuting, and Yuting's brother joined me at 11:10, after they picked Lila up at the airport. We had lunch together in the temple's fine restaurant (12:00-1:00), I said my prayers in the garden, and then at 1:40 we all left for Zhaojue Si (2:20-4:05; my# 20). We returned to the hotel well before 6:00; Lila and I took a walk through Tianfu Square (7:00-7:30), seeing the statue of Mao and the Metro construction; at 8:00 we were at The Bookworm Café for dinner, after which we took a cab back to the hotel.
Sunday, May 16: We took an early bus to Leshan, were we arrived before 12:15 and ate lunch in a small restaurant. A second shuttle bus had purposefully dropped us at the gate of "Oriental Buddha Park," a Disney-esque tourist rip-off. It only took me a moment to realize we could walk around to another gate, saving the 70rmb-each entry fee (but the Big Buddha area was still 90! Had we gone only to the target temple, we would have saved even that.) By 1:15 we were in the Stele Forest and at 1:35 at the Big Buddha himself. In the same area were Monk Haitong's Cave and the rebuilding Lingyun Si; we left that area about 2:05 and were passing some interesting plaques at 2:20. Next were the Putong Pagoda burial caves and the next building (maybe Lower Guanyin Temple?) around 2:40-2:50; this area had a gate marked "Lingyun Shan," and everything after this is probably in a non-ticketed area. We reached a former fishing village (now housing shops), the nearby Mahao Tomb Caves, and the magnificent Haoshang Bridge and hung out from 2:55-3:10. Leaving there, we climbed the mountain to Leshan's Wuyou Si (3:45-5:10; my #21). Coming down by another trail we found more "Putong Pagodas" (burial caves). We caught a local bus to Leshan bus station (arriving around 6:00) and took a highway bus back to Chengdu. From there we made our way to The Bookworm Café for dinner around 9:00, then a cab back to the hotel.
Monday, May 17: Yuting wasn't well this morning, so Franc met us alone at our hotel and helped us negotiate a taxi way out to Baoguang Si (9:55-1:35; my #22). We enjoyed a leisurely visit, with a cheap teahouse lunch on the grounds from 11:40-1:00 (lots of catching up to do). After returning to the city by taxi, we gathered our bags and met Yuting at Tanghu Park, a place with a teahouse in Shuangliu, not terribly far from the airport. After feeding the fish and being introduced to the delightful "tofu brains" (tofu with chili and lots of other stuff added) we headed for the airport, where Lila had an approximately 6:40 flight, and my 20:00-21:55 flight was massively delayed.
Trip 5: Eastern Anhui and Jiangsu (July 20-30, 2010)
Tuesday, July 20: My Shenzhen-Nanjing flight was supposed to be 09:00-11:05; but due to massive delays I arrived in Nanjing too late to go templing. There was also a problem with my hotel. The Motel 168 I had booked near the railway station, as it turned out, did not accept foreigners. So I was rebooked to another hotel, which I had not seen on the map (due to the late rebooking); As luck would have it, it was located on NORTH Zhongyang Road; I was looking for it on MIDDLE Zhongyang Road, where there just happened to be another (and rather rundown) hotel. It took quite a bit of sign language before we figured it out. Anyway, I was in my room by 3:40 (with a beautiful view of the construction going on in the building about 10 feet behind). I went to the supermarket across the street and got provisions for the next few days, then hunted down some "veg" (I hope) food in the local restaurants.
Stayed Nanjing Chunchangzai Business Express Hotel
Wednesday, July 21: Taxi to the train station fairly early (up at 6), and off to a day in Anhui. First to Guangji Si in Wuhu (10:50-12:10; my #23) by taxi from the station (after buying onward ticket--a habit I established for the trip), where a kind monk offered me a solitary lunch in the dining room. Taxi back to the station and on to Hefei and Mingjiao Si (3:50-5:20; my #24). A funny thing happened on the train: I got into a sort of argument with a Chinese passenger over something trivial, and we ended up friends; he paid for my onward ticket back to Nanjing, and took me to Mingjiao Si by taxi. After seeing this temple-on-a-shopping street, I trained (standing room only) back to Nanjing. Bought tomorrow's tickets, shopped, did laundry.
Stayed Nanjing Chunchangzai Business Express Hotel
Thursday, July 22: On a 7:40 train to Chuzhou, Anhui by 8:30. Not sure how long this would take, I bought two tickets to return to Nanjing, one at 10:50, the other at 13:35. (I ended up using the later one.) Taxi to the entry gate for Langya Si (9:10-11:25; my #25); a whopping 95rmb to enter, plus 5 for the shuttle! Perhaps the old monk from the upper temple knew this, because when he saw me later, he invited me to lunch. (I had very good luck with temple meals on this trip.) Then back to Nanjing by 2:45, in taxi (far!) by 3:00 to Qixia Si (3:35-4:50; my #26). After one old monk yelled at me when I asked if Master Hsing Yun had studied there ("He's not here! He went to Taiwan!") I was pleased that a younger monk (Ven. Chuan Xi) and a layman invited me to dinner. We then shared a bus back to Nanjing Railway Station, where it rained buckets.
Stayed Nanjing Chunchangzai Business Express Hotel
Friday, July 23: Wanting an early start, I left the hotel at 8:00, but the woman driving the taxi was uncertain of the route, and didn't get me to the temple until 8:45. After paying another National Park-style fee, I saw the Beamless Hall with its historical display, and other parts of "Linggu Scenic area." Then into Linggu Si (9:15-10:10; my #27). Afterward, prayers just outside the gate, then at 10:25 more of the Scenic Area, including the former "Discipline Hall" (Lv Tang) now "Pine-wind Pavilion," and the Nationalist-built Linggu Pagoda. At 10:35, lunch in an over-priced restaurant near the Pine-wind Pavilion; then at 11:10 onward, downhill to exit around 11:20. A taxi back to the hotel where I picked up my bags, then another to the train station for a fast train to Zhenjiang. Checked into the hotel and taxied to Jinshan Jiangtian Si (3:00-4:15; my #28). Before I left, halls and precincts were closing around me. Apparently they shoo people out around 4:00 so they can pray in peace at 5:00. Next taxi told me it was too late to go to Jiaoshan, so I went back to the hotel.
Stayed Zhenjiang Hotel.
Saturday, July 24: My biggest adventure of the trip: I had no idea how I would get to this morning's temple, located on a mountain. As it turned out, the mountain was the easy part; the hard part we getting to (and from) the gate of the national park where it was located. (As it turned out, there was a direct city bus from Qixia Si, where I had been on Thursday. Oh, well.) So: long-distance bus to Baohuazhen, mini-cab back to gate (could have called a stop to the bus driver as we passed it: oh, well, two). Park ticket (at 9:45) and a shuttle up the hill. Longchang Si (10:04-12:20; my #29) is gorgeous, and a young monk, Ven. Guang Yao, showed me around, and invited me to lunch, which was served according to monastic ritual. I headed back down the hill (rushed, as I had another temple to see in Zhenjiang), arriving at the bottom at 12:30. By 12:45 I had flagged down a highway bus (my first time!) back to Zhenjiang. Lunch at KFC at bus station, then taxi to park surrounding Jiaoshan. Arrived gate at 2:10, and took a ferry across to Jiaoshan Dinghui Si (2:20-4:25; my #30). Storm arriving as I landed on mainland (4:35), local bus back to hotel
Stayed Zhenjiang Hotel
Sunday, July 25: Up and out to highway bus to Yangzhou; arrived, checked in by 11:45, lunch at KFC where I ate many times when I lived in Yangzhou. Took local bus from in front of hotel to Gaomingsi (2:25-5:10; my #31). Met a young monk, Ven. Sheng Xing, who was born and raised in Canada. He got permission to take me up the pagoda. (I had had a thorough tour of the temple grounds with Fo Guang Shan monastics in May of 2007; today was just a tag-up and time to do my prayers as an "official" visit.) After, I took local buses to Jiangdu, where I tried to find the birthplace of Master Hsing Yun. I was in the neighborhood by 7:00pm; a kindly local man, his wife (on a scooter) and son, helped me. After much walking and questioning, we found it (I think). It was way after dark; my SMS post about kneeling at the family shrine in the house was posted at 8:18. My new friend directed me to the local bus back to my hotel in Yangzhou.
Stayed Yangzhou - Tianxiangge Hotel
Monday, July 26: As with yesterday, my visit to Daming Si (my #32) was just a "tag up." I talked my way in for free as a former resident (thanks to the timely arrival of my old friend, the cook, at the ticket booth). There is one new hall inside, converted from a gift shop; otherwise all was as it had been two-plus years before when I left. Lots of friendly faces. Another new thing was the completed library at the back of the property. Though I couldn't get inside (closed Mondays) a friendly lady showed me around the compound. After returning to the hotel to fetch my bags, I taxied to the long-distance bus station, and bused to Changzhou. I bought my onward ticket in the train station next door, and took a taxi to Tianning Si (2:35-4:05; my #33), carrying my bags with me. I was chased out by a rainstorm (and my train's departure), and taxied back to the station. From there to Suzhou, where I taxied to the hotel.
Stayed Suzhou - Shantang Home-Stry Business Hotel
Tuesday, July 27: Taxi to bus station to Nantong's Langshan; didn't realize I could have walked to the cable car, so took a cab (driver smirked); up the mountain by cable car to Guangjiao Si (12:20-4:50; my #34). A delightful walk down the hill, noodles in a fly-specked place served by a high-school girl studying English, and walked back to the bus station for the return to Suzhou. Dinner in town at 6:30 (Indian at the Cross) and back to the hotel.
Stayed Suzhou - Shantang Home-Stry Business Hotel
Wednesday, July 28: Bus to Xi Yuan (10:10-11:35; my #35), then taxi to bus station to Changshu and Yushan Xingfu Si (3:00-4:15; my #36). Like many places I've been, this temple is in an area with several temples; could have used more time. Bus back to Suzhou, supermarket dinner.
Stayed Suzhou - Shantang Home-Stry Business Hotel
Thursday, July 29: Two temples in town today, each challenging in its own way. Lo-o-o-ong bus ride to Lingyanshan Si (12:35-2:05; my #37). At the base of the mountain at 11:45; climbing, passed Guanyin Cave 12:15. Temple was beautiful, and cheap (1rmb); add 10 more for a fine bowl of noodles in the "Vegetarian Noodle Office." Back down (exhausted) by 2:35 (kind monks I met gave me a juice box), then a taxi to the unpleasantly super-crowded Hanshan Si (3:05-4:15; my #38 and last for this trip). I visited the Bell Tower across the street, a little quieter (4:20-4:35) and ate in an overpriced noodle shop (4:40-5:05). I hung around the gate area hoping for SOMEthing until 5:15, then walked to a bus stop and headed back to the hotel.
Stayed Suzhou - Shantang Home-Stry Business Hotel
Friday, July 30: A leisurely day: checked out, taxi to train station, fast train to Shanghai Hongqiao Airport; flight to Shenzhen 15:30-17:50.
Trip 6: Xi'an 2 (Outlying Areas) and Ningxia (October 13-20, 2010)
Wednesday, October 13: Shenzhen-Xi'an flight 08:40-11:10; in room by 1:40. Had expected to stay at Home Inn (The East of Zhonglou Xi'an), but was rejected as a foreigner, so rebooked to City Hotel, just southwest of the Bell Tower. Went to the Tourist Information Center (NW of Bell Tower) to try to get information on reaching outlying temples. Good maps, little bus info. Dinner at Subway.
Stayed Xi'an - City Hotel
Thursday, October 14: Trying to use only local buses (no taxis or cars) I headed out to find some temples. I reached Xingjiao Si (11:03-1:30; my #39), with Xuanzang's pagoda. On the way back, I wanted to find the ancestral seat of the Huayan Sect. Google Maps was terribly wrong; I got off the bus at the wrong place, walked a while, and was set right by a local policeman and the driver of the bus I reboarded. I finally found it on the Cliffside above a school: Huayan Si (2:20-3:40). Back on the bus and to the city's center.
Stayed Xi'an - City Hotel
Friday, October 15: Today's temples were even more remote. After two or three buses, I landed at a fork in the road called Fengyu Kou. The driver who took me up to the gate of the first temple insisted that the temple was right next to the road; WRONG. From the base of the hill at 10:35, it was an hour up a largely washed-out trail to Jingye Si (11:35-1:15; my #40), where upon my arrival at the gate, another visitor gave me fruit. The setting was beautiful, the temple serene. I wanted to continue up to the pagoda dedicated to Daoxuan, but the same storm that washed out the trail below made it impossible to continue very far. I was back at the base of the hill by 2:05, where I walked a bit then caught a cab back to Fengyu Kou, where I boarded an onward bus. I alighted at 2:45 for the 15-minute walk to Caotang Si (3:00-4:25; my #41). Another beautiful place. And then I made a mistake: instead of back-tracking, I tried taking another bus, through Huxian. This led to an extremely packed bus, the last of the day, and a VERY long ride standing up (with some washboard road to boot). After the morning's climb, this was excruciating. Another bus (seated at last) and I was back at the Bell Tower around 8:00.
Stayed Xi'an - City Hotel
Saturday, October 16: By 10:00 I was in the area of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda looking for information on buses to Famen Temple (upshot: have to go to the train station parking lot tomorrow morning). Lunch, then a local bus toward the next temple. Off the bus at 1:50, through a village and past an old pagoda, to Xiangji Si (2:00-4:00; my #42), where the ticket-seller let me in for free. Back out for a closer look at the pagoda, some shots of village kids, and back on the bus by 4:20. Another very long ride home, this time because traffic in the city center was virtually shut down by student protests against Japan over a sovereignty dispute regarding the Diaoyu (Japanese: Senkaku) Islands. Official media reported over 7,000 students participated; I ended up getting off my detoured bus and walking into the city, where I ate at Subway. Then another walk, and having to get permission to cross through the police cordon to get to my hotel. All was quiet at that moment, but things started up again later, and I heard bullhorn-led chanting into the night. (Where do students get bullhorns?)
Stayed Xi'an - City Hotel
Sunday, October 17: Today I led a little protest of my own. In 1987 an alleged relic of Shakyamuni Buddha was unearthed when a pagoda collapsed. The humble little temple has subsequently been turned into another Disney-esque debacle with a huge 120rmb entry fee. I took a direct highway bus from the train station plaza, debussing at 9:50. Not wanting to enter the "fake" area at all, I worked my way from the massive entry gate around to the less-pretentious gate to the temple itself--almost. There was still a barrier charging the higher fee, and I did everything I could to avoid paying it, for the sake of principle. I explained that I simply wanted to pray in the temple, not visit the relic; I called monks I knew to see if they knew someone inside; I hailed exiting monks and asked for a favor, to no avail. I even stood outside and chanted for a while, took pictures of the security guards, and generally made a nuisance of myself. Finally, defeated, I paid the fine-I mean, fee--and went in. Famen Si (10:45-12:25) was pleasant enough, but not spectacular. It's not even on my list! I just went to see what all the fuss was about. Afterward, I took a quick peek at the museum next door, and walked through the Disneyland plaza, though I never even approached the so-called "pagoda." Back at the bus by 1:00, I waited quite a while for its departure, and headed to my second goal for the day. I had been to Qinglong Si (5:15-6:20) on my first visit to Xi'an, in February of 2007. I barely recognized it this time: a mammoth shopping center is being built out front, in "Tang" style, and the temple gate is tucked away behind it. Still, the evening was pleasant, and I once again felt in touch with Kobo Daishi (Konghai), who had studied there. I took a bus back to the Bell Tower after dark.
Stayed Xi'an - City Hotel
Monday, October 18: I awoke early and headed to the airport for an 11:55 flight to Yinchuan--only to discover that my notes were wrong, and the flight was tomorrow! As every hotel booking was based on those wrong notes, I had to get another night at City Hotel in Xi'an, and change my booking in Yinchuan. Back in Xi'an with time on my hands, I decided to seek out a small temple I'd heard of (and, seemingly, no one else had) named Ximing Si. (I have since taken the name of the temple as my Chinese name: 柏="bai" or "bo" for "Baquet," and 西明="Ximing" as my personal name.) So I took a bus back to Huxian, where I had been on Friday (this time, though specifically to a "wide spot in the road" called Pangguang). I then hired a driver to take me to Ximing Si (3:15-3:45) and back to the Pangguang bus depot, from where I traveled smoothly back into town.
Stayed Xi'an - City Hotel
Tuesday, October 19: Looking back and realizing how many wrong turns I made on this trip, I wonder why I enjoyed it so much? Anyway, this morning, before my REAL flight to Yinchuan, I tried to visit the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, or Xiaoyan Ta (7:45-8:05). As it turns out, it's closed for the long-term. Oh, well. Off to the airport and Yinchuan, in Ningxia (flight 11:55-13:10). Checked in to the motel by 2:25, I took a local bus. Off the bus at 3:05, I walked through a gorgeous park with spectacular views of the namesake pagoda at my target, Haibaota Si (3:25-5:20; my #43). On the return I walked a lot; went to a supermarket to buy the fixin's for dinner; and returned to my room to discover that the internet didn't work (though the staff blamed it on my computer, which oddly worked in the hotel the night before, and at home the next night. Hmmm…)
Stayed Yinchuan West Motel
Wednesday, October 20: Though I should have done more templing, I was exhausted, so slept in. Went to airport for Yinchuan-Xi'an flight 13:20-14:15; waited in Xi'an airport for Xian-Shenzhen flight 22:00-00:35, arriving home Thursday morning, beat but happy.
Trip 7: Guangzhou (November 19 and December 21, 2010; March 12, 2011)
This is not so much a trip as a series of short day trips, spread out over several months, to explore one temple from my list and several more known as the "Five Great Temples of Guangzhou."
Friday, November 19: On the first trip I actually did stay overnight, as I had business at the American Consulate the day before. I then took the Metro to Gongyuanqian Station and walked to Liurong Si (11:00-12:40; my #44). I had been here once before, in April of 2006, but had had camera failure. Besides, this time was my "official" visit, including my devotions. After my visit, I walked to Guangxiao Si (12:45-1:45) (sort of more pleasing than Liurong), then took the Metro, a local bus, and a highway bus back home.
Stayed Guangzhou - New East Hotel (Tianhe Dong) near American Consulate
Tuesday, December 21: This time accompanied by friends Tim and Amy (the same Tim who hosted me in Ningbo on my first trip), we started with a highway bus, then a local taxi, and the Metro to Gongyuanqian Station. We visited Liurong Si (9:55-11:20) and walked to Guangxiao Si (10:40-12:45), where we had lunch in the restaurant. Then we took a bus to Hualin Si (1:15-2:15) which once hosted Bodhidharma, and then by bus and on foot to Haizhuang Si (3:20-4:15). From there we took a local bus back to the long-distance bus station, and a highway bus to Shenzhen.
Saturday, March 12: I had learned that the four temples above were not the full picture. There had been a fifth temple, Changshou Si, on the list of Great Temples of Guangzhou. As it had been destroyed in 1905, the Powers That Be had added another to the list. So on this morning, Lila and I did the bus-taxi-Metro shuffle back to Gongyuanqian Station, as I had before, but this time we took a different exit (at 11:20). We walked past the "Yaozhou Relic Site," where sources say a "forbidden imperial garden" had been located over a thousand years ago, to Dafo Si (11:25-12:00), site of a major Buddhist library. We then strolled along Huifu West Road enjoying the architecture and street life until we came to the Five Immortals (Taoist) Temple (12:15-12:50). After more street life and architecture, we noted Jinlun Guild Hall (1:30) near Hualin Si (01:35-1:55). This time, exploring an alternate route, we took a bus northward to the Chen Clan Academy (Guangdong Folk Arts Museum) (3:40-4:45). Then taxi and highway bus home.
Trip 8: Kunming (June 3-7, 2011)
Friday, June 3: To my delight, Lila agreed to accompany me for a quick trip to see three temples in Kunming. We were to fly at 20:25-22:35, but massive delays got us in after midnight. Taxi vultures tried to skin us, but we found an honest one and arrived at our hotel in just 15 minutes or so, for a fraction of the previous quotes. All's well that ends that way.
Stayed every night at Kunming - Bestway Hotel
Saturday, June 4: Exhausted from our late arrival, I juggled the schedule a bit so we could sleep in. We asked several taxis to take us to our temple, but all refused. Finally one said yes--but it turns out I hadn't spoken clearly and he took us to a temple much closer, but in the wrong direction! Chagrined, he agreed to head into the mountains (the cause for the others' refusal) and we had a delightful time at Qiongzhu Si (1:21-4:10; my #45) with its exquisite collection of statues. We had a great, cheap lunch of spicy noodles inside the temple grounds. Buses and a taxi took us back to town, and dinner at Yuquanzhai, near the gate of Yuantong Si.
Sunday, June 5: This time the taxis knew how busy the gateway to our destination would be (easy to pick up a return fare), so we had no problem getting right to the gate of Huating Si (10:30-12:45; my #46), where we had fun exploring a virtually abandoned pagoda area behind the temple. Getting out was tougher, so we walked downhill a ways before getting into a minibus which we thought would take us to the main gate, but in fact dropped us in town. We caught a taxi to Yuantong Si's gate again, planning on lunch at Yuquanzhai. By "accident" we ran into Ven. De Ru, a monk I had met in a temple in Fujian when we were teaching kids there in the summer of 2006. After a brief chat, we lunched separately, then he joined us for another longer chat. Afterward he went on his way, and Lila and I walked down the hill to see the twin pagoda relics at Dade Si (3:40-3:50). After returning to our hotel, I shot the pagoda of Tanhua Si from our room window (4:25); this was the place the driver had mistakenly taken us to yesterday morning.
Monday, June 6: Given our afternoon flight time, we headed out early and took a taxi to our last temple, Yuantong Si (8:15-9:40; my #47), by the gate of which we had eaten twice already. No time for that today. Another taxi dropped us at the "Shuang Ta," Twin Pagodas (10:00-11:00), which we shot. Grabbing a quick KFC lunch, we taxied back to the hotel, grabbed our bags, and taxied to the airport for our 14:00-15:40 flight to Shenzhen.
Trip 9: Beijing (July 8-16, 2011)
In a strange twist on my usual style of hurried, budget trips, I was treated this time to a five-star (literally!) experience by my student Walter, CEO of a large medical technology company. I stayed every night but the last in the Grand Hyatt Beijing near Tiananmen Square, and had a driver at my disposal most of the time. Walter even paid for meals when he was free to join me. It was quite a trip.
Friday, July 8: Walter's driver picked me up at home, and then we went to get him at his office (between my place and the airport). We flew mid-morning, and it was my first experience of a first-class lounge and check-in. Nice! A driver, Mr. Che, met us in Beijing and dropped Walter at a meeting. I checked in at the Grand Hyatt with Mr. Che's help, and went out to find a nearby veg restaurant ("Fuhui Ciyuan Vegetarian Cultural Restaurant") near Wangfujing that Walter's secretary Yolanda had located for us.
Stayed every night but the last in the Grand Hyatt Beijing
Saturday, July 9: I rose fairly early and met Walter for breakfast in the hotel. Then Mr. Che took us to Badachu Park; we were at the entry area at 9:00, and went immediately to the first temple inside the gate--and my only goal there, Lingguang Si--which is the site of the Foya Shilita (9:05-10:20; my #48). We then wandered up the hillside to Sanshan An (10:20-10:30). After an hour or so we located the cable car that took us up to the top of the mountain and Baozhu Cave (11:40-11:50). Before I went to the cave, Walter had to leave for a meeting, and took a ride down a cool "chute." The ride up had been 18 minutes or so; he told me later the chute took only seven! So I visited the cave alone, and began walking down the hill, where I stopped at Xiangjie Si (12:05-12:45); Longquan An (1:00-1:45) where I had a snack; Dabei Si (1:45-2:40) and its tayuan (cemetery/pagoda area); then back to Lingguang Si. Exploring outside the gates and looking for another temple, I finally discovered that Changan Si (3:40-3:45) is closed to the public, for the purpose of enhancing the residents' practice. Mr. Che picked me up and returned me to the hotel; Walter and I returned to the veg restaurant for dinner that night.
Sunday, July 10: Walter was busy so I was on my own today. Mr. Che dropped me at Tongjiaosi (9:50-10:15; my #49), which I discovered was only open on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month. I was allowed to sit in the courtyard, though, and said my devotions. I resolved to come back this Friday for the "open day." Then a taxi to Xihuangsi (10:45-10:50; my #50), which, oddly, the driver didn't seem to know. (He dropped me blocks away, and I ended up walking quite a way to find it). It turns out this one is also closed, perhaps because it's closely connected to the Panchen Lama. I was stopped just before I caught sight of the exquisite pagoda. Arg! Another cab dropped me in the hutongs (alleys) near Guanghuasi (12:30-1:45; my #51), a pleasant place and seat of the Beijing Buddhist Association. A further walk in the hutongs brought me to a small lake ("Houhai") and a distant view of Beijing's famous Drum Tower. Finally, another cab took me to Guangjisi (2:30-3:25; my #52), home of the China Buddhist Association. I foolishly (it was Sunday afternoon) decided to take the subway back to the hotel (Walter was appalled at the very idea). That night we dined at the Beijing Bookworm in Sanlitun Village. Getting home involved a ride in a three-wheel bicycle to a place where we could get a taxi.
Monday, July 11: I set out a little late, and due to another taxi fiasco (he dropped me, again, blocks from my destination), it was surprisingly late when I reached my destination. First I had a wander by a sizeable mosque (The Chinese Institute of Islamic Theology) and a peek inside the seemingly-abandoned Sheng'an Temple (1:40) before reaching Fayuansi (2:25-4:50; my #53). The Chinese Buddhist Institute is located here, and I was able to see my old boss from Yangzhou, Ven. Yong Xing, now vice-dean of the CBI. We had tea and watermelon in his room next to the Heavenly Kings' Hall, and he showed me around the grounds. A cab back home, and dining alone at the Subway shop in the mall under the hotel that night (source of most of my meals in Beijing).
Tuesday, July 12: Breakfast with Walter (who was leaving that day) and back to my room for research. Out with Mr. Che when he returned from dropping Walter at the airport, and to Yonghegong (1:05-2:45; my #54), the largest Tibetan temple I had seen to date. It inspired me to take another crack at Xihuangsi (3:30-4:05), this time guiding the again-clueless cabbie more directly. I failed again to get in; a local man explained to me that it was ALWAYS closed. But this time found an angle on the pinnacle of the pagoda over a wall. The best I could do! By taxi back to the hotel and a dinner at the local veg place with my Shenzhen friend Mr. Deep.
Wednesday, July 13: Yesterday I had told Walter I was planning to take a train to Tianjin; he insisted Mr. Che drive me, and so I rode the two-plus hours to Tianjin's Dabeisi (11:25-1:20; my #55) in air-conditioned comfort, with sandwiches, drinks and snacks on board. A fine day; the temple had a funny little old section inside, surrounded by more showy stuff.
Thursday, July 14: Today as I passed Tiananmen Square for the umpteenth time, I decided to shoot it through the taxi windows. I was on my way for a quick revisit to Fayuan Si (2:10-2:20) to shoot some things I'd missed Tuesday, then got stuck in terrible traffic on my way to the enormous Temple of Heaven (2:50-4:15), which Walter had pointedly suggested I see. From there I taxied to a Pizza Hut, and walked from there back to the hotel, arriving around 5:45.
Friday, July 15: I was meant to leave Beijing today, and so made plans with Mr. Che for a couple of quick stops before lunch and the trek to the airport. "The best-laid plans…" First, a dilapidated temple in the hutongs recommended by Lonely Planet, the pleasing Zhihuasi (9:30-10:05) (minus some of its ravaged ceilings, now in American museums). Then a return to Tongjiao Si (10:20-10:35) for its open day. As it turns out, the little that I saw Sunday was pretty much all there was, though the place was livelier, with many volunteers working today. Then on to The Bookworm again for lunch. Mr. Che had someone call to explain that my original 15:30-18:35 flight to Shenzhen had been greatly delayed, so I was able to dawdle a bit; as it turned out, after he had picked me up and dropped me at the airport, the flight was CANCELLED. Walter's secretary Yolanda helped me book another for the next day; Mr. Che returned and dropped me at a hotel not far from the airport; and I spent an unexpected extra night in (or near) Beijing.
Stayed probably Best Western Grandsky Hotel Beijing (not sure; I was dazed!)
Saturday, July 16: After sleeping in and more delays, I finally caught my supposed 16:30-19:35 flight to Shenzhen. Walter's regular driver Mr. Mao picked me up and took me home just before the clock turned over to my 56th birthday. At last! Yolanda, his secretary, called while I was at the airport to say Happy Birthday, and incidentally, my flight had nearly been re-routed to Guiyang due to weather!
Trip 10: Dongbei, Hebei, and Qingdao (August 24-31, 2011)
Many of the details of this trip were posted on Facebook. Until I have time to create temple pages here, you might look there (open to all, even without Facebook account).
Wednesday, August 24: At the airport on my way out of town, I saw a couple of my students still "volunteering" after the University Games that had finished the day before. My 09:00-14:40 Shenzhen-to-Haerbin flight connected through Hefei, where I had been last year to visit Mingjiao Si (via train from Nanjing). Landing in Haerbin at 3:00, by 3:30 I was texting that I was on my way from the airport to the city through the "Flattest place I ever saw! Not a mountain or hill in any direction." Excellent weather, in room by 5:00. Out again for a walk up Dong Dazhi and Yimen Streets to the front of Jile Temple, tomorrow's first goal (5:50-6:40). Dinner in a veg restaurant next door (and which I later found was attached to the temple). Then by buses to see the exterior of St. Sophia Cathedral (8:10-8:25). Bused and walked back to hotel.
Stayed Haerbin - Motel 168 (Dongdazhi Street Branch)
Thursday, August 25: Checked out, took bags to Jile Si (7:45-9:40; my #56). Couldn't buy a ticket before 8, and guest office wouldn't take my bag, so the morning was a little more trying than anticipated. Temple was nice, but not spectacular; skipped another nearby in the interest of time. 11:50 train to Changchun, where after checking in to hotel I managed to find the little-known (and little!) Dizang Si, (3:30-4:00; my #57), which was actually closed for massive remodeling, but I was kindly let in. Southward on the same street as Dizang and hotel I looked at the exterior of Boruo Si (4:20), tomorrow's goal. Temples close early up here!
Stayed Changchun - Motel 168 (Changchun Avenue)
Friday, August 26: Up and out early to see Boruo (or Banruo) Si, Changchun (7:55-8:45; my #58). Afterward I was able to buy onward tickets in the hotel's ticket office. Couldn't get a sleeper for the Shenyang-to-Chengde, so would have to sit. More later. But the 11:02 from Changchun to Jilin was a comfortable fast train. Taxi to small, friendly Guanyin Gucha in Jilin (1:10-2:10; my #59), then a slooow train from historic Jilin West Railway Station (closed for repairs) to Shenyang, 4:15-11:30.
Stayed Shenyang - Daban 168 Business Hotel (Wuai Branch)
Saturday, August 27: Messed around quite a while in the morning trying to find an alternative to tonight's 13-hour non-sleeper ride; no luck. To Bore (or Banruo) Si, Shenyang (11:20-12:05; my #60). Nothing special. Around the corner the very nice Ci'en Si (12:15-1:25; my #61), then the small and under-repair Dafo Si (1:25-1:35). Walked the streets for quite a while; found KFC; walked to hotel and picked up bags for taxi to the train station. Train 5:18 to Chengde. Train was miserable, but at least I saved on a room!
Sunday, August 28: Arrived Chengde around 6:00 a.m., was surprised when hotel let me into room for a morning's sleep. Up at 12:40; lunch in the hotel restaurant (NOT all veg, as advertised); shot the magnificent lobby of this temple-hotel, then out to the temple proper at 1:30pm. Puning Si (1:35-3:35; my #62) and the attached Puyou Si (3:35-4:05) are even bigger than Yonghegong, and are now the biggest Tibetan-style temples I've seen. I walked to the abandoned Guangyuan Si (4:05-4:15) nearby, then back to the hotel to eat voluminous leftovers from lunch.
Stayed Chengde - Puning Hotel
Monday, August 29: Breakfast was again leftovers; checked out and left my bags as I took a taxi to find Luohan Tang to the west of Puning (10:30, nothing there but walls). Walked past a restricted military area to Shuxiang (10:45-11:05) a closed-but-active temple in front of which I said my prayers. Pleasant walk through fields to the front of Putuozongcheng Temple (11:15-11:30), where I dawdled a bit, and on to Xumifushou Temple and bridge (11:35-11:45). On a bus to town, I jumped off to see the Yongyou Si Pagoda over the walls of the grounds of the Qing emperors' summer resort (part of what Lonely Planet calls a "vanished temple") (11:50). On into town, then back to the hotel for my bags by 1:20. Taxi to East Bus Station (where I bought a ticket yesterday). Six-hour ride started on a sleeper bus (at 2:30, in broad daylight) with a medallion of the Virgin of Guadalupe in front; after an hour we changed to a more conventional one. Lots of delays, so we arrived in Shijiazhuang after 10:30pm. Along the way, saw signs advertising the Simatai section of the Great Wall.
Stayed Shijiazhuang - Motel 168 (Shijiazhuang Xinbai Plaza)
Tuesday, August 30: I spent the morning trying to find a bus or train ticket to Qingdao, but could only get one as far as Beijing. Taxi to Zhengding where I made a beeline to my target: Chengling Pagoda at Linji Temple (9:00-9:55; my #63). Noted a large mosque and Muslim homes in the nearby alleyways as I walked to nearby Guanghui Temple and its Hua Pagoda (10:05-10:20); then walked down to ancient wall relics (10:25-10:35). Taxi up to Lingxiao Pagoda at Tianning Temple (10:40-11:15), where I was serenaded by a six-year-old, then walked to Xumi Pagoda at Kaiyuan Monastery (11:30-12:00), a place filled with stone relics. Taxi back to hotel, picked up bags, and took same taxi to Shijiazhuang North Station for the 1:40 fast train to Beijing. Unfortunately, they had no tickets to Qingdao either, so instead of staying in the room I had already paid for in Qingdao (Motel 168, Qingdao Railway Station), I ended up taking a motorcycle cab to another near Beijing South Railway Station, where I would take off early in the morning.
Stayed Beijing - Golden Oasis Hotel
Wednesday, August 31: A taxi to Beijing South Station and a 7:10 fast train to Qingdao, arriving 12:20, and a taxi directly to Zhanshan Si (12:50-1:50; my #64), with a view of the beautiful Qingdao coast on the way. Then a frantic taxi ride to the airport, where I made it in time to pick up my ticket for my 16:00-19:00 return flight to Shenzhen.
Trip 11: Zhejiang 2 (Mountains and Wenzhou) (September 12-17, 2011)
Many of the details of this trip were posted on Facebook. Until I have time to create temple pages here, you might look there (open to all, even without Facebook account).
On this trip I was accompanied by a good Indian friend who shall be known here only as "Mr. Deep."
Monday, September 12: I met Mr. Deep at the airport (by the skin of my teeth). After the usual delays, our allegedly 7:55-10:00 flight to Ningbo took off, landing nearly on time. All of my info told me the bus to Xinchang left from the South Bus Station; it did not, and we had passed the right one (the Central Station) in the airport bus! So we had to get a taxi back to the Central, where we caught the bus to Xinchang. Off the bus, into a taxi, to Dafo Si (2:05-5:05; my #65). Way too little time to explore the valleys and grottoes. Walked (with our bags) to hotel. In room after dinner by 7:15.
Stayed Xinchang - Baiyun Hotel
Tuesday, September 13: Bus at 9:25 to Mt. Tiantai, through beautiful countryside. Taxi to hotel, checked in, and out again by 1:15 to walk to nearby temple--but we walked right past the gate (at 1:25) serendipitously finding a major pagoda and some smaller ones, all associated with the target temple (1:30-1:45) and the Tiantai Shan Buddhist Association (1:50). Finally back to Guoqing Si (2:00-4:00; my #66). Back in hotel, nap, dinner in hotel restaurant (the first of many negotiations for veg food).
Stayed Tiantai Shan - Tiantai Hotel
Wednesday, September 14: I had arranged for a rather expensive taxi ride up to today's target. We arrived at Fangguang Si (10:00-11:45; my #67) up in the mountains, where we passed the "Middle Temple" at 10:15, and were in the Upper Temple and around its waterfall from 10:25-11:05; then back to visit the Middle (there seems to be no lower) from 11:15-11:40, and out at the gate to meet the taxi by 11:45. Lunch, dawdled away the afternoon in research and posting on Facebook, dinner, and sleep.
Stayed Tiantai Shan - Tiantai Hotel
Thursday, September 15: Another expensive ride, this one to Gaoming Si (10:10-11:55; my #68) and the nearby Zhizhe Tayuan (12:00-12:40), both beautifully situated in stunning landscapes. We had the driver drop us at Guoqing Si again upon return (1:05-1:40), and then explored some small pagodas closer to the hotel until 2:10. Another relaxing afternoon.
Stayed Tiantai Shan - Tiantai Hotel
Friday, September 16: Final breakfast in the hotel, then an 8:35 bus to Wenzhou. Arrived, checked in, got to the dock by 1:30 and were on the island of Jiangxin Si (1:45-4:25; my #69). Leaving the temple at 3:05, we visited a small pagoda with the relics of a modern monk named Muyu ("Wooden Fish"), then were at the West Pagoda by 3:15, the East Pagoda by 3:50, and in the Wen Chang temple by 4:00. Our boat left at 4:25, and by 4:35 we were on a futile search for dinner (and the Wenzhou South Railway Station, which was NOT near our hotel, as the map had suggested). Ate supermarket dinner (something Mr. Deep is apparently not used to), and retired.
Stayed Wenzhou - Rest Motel (Lucheng)
Saturday, September 17: Checked out, taxi to the REAL Wenzhou South Railway Station for the 10:23 train to Wenzhou. When we bought the ticket we were told there would be an hour's delay; pauses along the way made us even delayed-er. But that was OK because (1) this was the train that had had a fatal collision in July, so I didn't mind them taking time to do it right, and (2) upon arrival we ran into Wendi, who had co-sponsored my first pilgrim's stay when I came to Ningbo in the summer of 2009. A nice way to tie up my visits to the province! As we had arrived in Ningbo after 2, there was no time to see anything, but by 2:20 we were enjoying Indian food in the Laowaitan area of Ningbo. Getting a taxi to the airport wasn't easy at 4-ish, so we took some buses southward until we finally hit a willing taxi driver. To the airport just in time for our 19:00-21:05 return to Shenzhen.
Trip 12: Fujian North (Fuzhou, Ningde, Fuqing, Putian) (October 22-29, 2011)
Regrettably, I did not write this account at the time of my journey. I am reconstructing it from notes and photos over two years later, so there may be some gaps or even inaccuracies. I will improve it as more information (or a better memory) becomes available.
Saturday, October 22: My flight to Fuzhou left and arrived astonishingly on time (12:20-1:40) and I was on a bus and in central Fuzhou by 3:00. When I got off the bus, I took a taxi straight to Dizang Si (3:30-4:10; my #70), located in alleyways a couple of hundred meters from the base of Jinjishan ("Gold Chicken Mountain"). Nothing very special in this temple, except that it's said to be one of the oldest in Fujian, supposedly founded in 572. There was a ceremony while I was there; as soon as it was over the main hall was locked and I was politely told the gates were about to be closed, so I walked from there to my hotel (about 1.2 km, carrying my bags) and checked in. Dinner in a steak buffet (without the steak) and home.
Stayed Fuzhou - Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Sunday, October 23: With the help of a particularly kind and persistent desk clerk at my Home Inn (several phone calls per destination to get information), I was able to find transportation for the two furthest-out temples of the trip. (As is my wont, I tried for them first.) So I left the hotel by local bus, heading for Fuzhou's West Bus Station. From there, I took a two-hour ride on a mini-bus--over half of it on a windy mountain road--and arrived in front of Xuefeng Chongsheng Si (12:30-3:30; my #71). Pailou, huge "free-life" pond, Mountain Gate. Despite its remoteness, it seems to be a large, recently-upgraded facility. Vegetable fields to one side, and a cozy compound up the hillside. Out the pailou and across the road, a Guanyin pond a small hermitage (Kumu An). Waited for the same bus, did a reverse commute back to the hotel. Dinner in the dining room. (Buffet breakfast there almost every day.)
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Monday, October 24: After brunch at Subway (one for here, one to go) with info in hand from my "savior," I took a local bus to a crossroads--not even station--and had to flag a passing bus that would stop at my temple. En route I met a teacher with a few girl students, returning from an event in Fuzhou. She said her school was in Shoushan, a place famous for its stone. She and the girls got off at a crossroads before we reached the temple. The temple was, in fact , the terminal, and the bus wouldn't go back down the mountain until 5 pm (I arrived at 11:15), so I had to improvise, as I wanted to see another temple later that day. The first of the day, Linyang Si (11:15-2:15; my #72) was as beautiful and spacious as the one yesterday, and its "free-life pond" was even bigger. Behind the temple, two new halls held lots of new statuary; there was also a new memorial hall outside the gate for a recently-deceased abbot. When I finished, I hung around the gate for about an hour, hoping something would happen. It did! A car full of temple visitors kindly took me down and dropped me near a bus stop. This was the first time I hitch-hiked as a pilgrim. I reached Xichan Si (3:45-6:00; my #73) in time to see the main halls, and the grounds remained open until 7:30 pm. Though a city temple, this one was much larger than Saturday's Dizang Temple. Lots of large halls with large statuary, and the most spacious and elaborate 500 Arhats' Hall I have ever seen--six stories high. Out to a bus, back to the hotel, dinner in.
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Tuesday, October 25: This was a most unusual day. In 2006, I had been fortunate enough to be asked to teach some kids at a remote mountain temple in Ningde, Fujian. One the assistants there was a young monk named Venerable Deru. We lost touch after the week of training, and I was lucky enough to run into him again--in far-away Kunming--in June of 2011, four months or so before this trip. So when I knew I would be coming back to his neighborhood (his temple was in nearby Fu'an), I gave him a call. This morning, he met me at Ningde Station on the new high-speed train line, driving a large SUV that belonged to a devotee--and drove me up to the temple where we had first met, Zhiti Huayan Si (12:30-1:35; my #74). It's fortunate he did: the temple is 19km from the highway, with sketchy bus service. After lunch with my old friend, the temple administrator Venerable Hui Jing, Deru took me on a tour to visit temples--and his monastic friends. We stopped at the base of the mountain where Huayan Si is located, at tiny Shuiyun (Cloud Water) Si (2:15); then into Fu'an to see Zhongde Chan Si 种德禅寺 "the largest temple in Fu'an" (3:05-3:15); Qiyun 栖云寺 (Settle Cloud) Temple, Ven. Deru's home temple (4:10); Tiantang (Heaven Hall) Si (4:50-5:00), one of the most unusual and stylish temples I have ever seen; the top of Tianma Shan ("Heavenly Horse Mountain") (5:10); and finally Xiangshan (Incense Mountain) Si (5:20-6:30), where we had dinner, and afterward tea, with his friend the abbess (and a terrific vegetarian cook) Venerable Ven. Yixiang. A 35km or so drive from Fu'an City to Fu'an Station, a very late train back to Fuzhou, and an expensive taxi to the hotel. (The stations for the high-speed train are usually quite far out of town.)
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Wednesday, October 26: Venerable Deru had arranged to have his brother, Chen Hui, take me to my next destination. And by "take" I mean I met him in his shop, and we took a bus together, and then I figured out the transportation up the hill to the temple. He co-ordinated with Deru by phone to get a monk friend to walk us in (avoiding the 50rmb admission fee) and translated for me once or twice--sort of reluctantly, I think, because English is a struggle for him. Yongquan Si (11:10-2:00; my #75) is beautifully situated on Gu Shan ("Drum Mountain"), said to be named thus because of the sound it makes when heavy rain beats down on it. My "highlight" was the enthusiastic monk, about my age, who kept the library. He wanted to show me everything, with Chen Hui translating. A bus back to the hotel, and packing and preparing for the next day's departure.
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Thursday, October 27: The next temple was between Fuzhou and Putian, where I would stay the night. I took a highway bus as far as Fuqing, the nearest town. Expecting a bus station, I was surprised when it was just a yard, with no services. Another kind young woman--my bus conductor--asked around and got the low-down. She put me on a bus, telling the driver what I needed. He stopped at my transfer point, got out, and told the NEXT driver what I needed. That guy told me where to get off. So great! Until I realized I was at a crossroads, about 5 or 6 km from my destination, and fresh out of buses. There were some dodgy-looking motorcycle drivers, but I decided--luggage and all--to walk it. After trudging 2 or 3 km, I heard a honking behind me, and a wealthy family--mother, father, married son and daughter-in-law--stopped to pick me up. Huangpo Shan Wanfu Si (1:30-3:20; my #76) is the mother temple of Obakusan Mampuku Ji in Uji, Japan (which I have visited); most of the current temple here was built on donations from Japanese devotees. It's the seat of the Obaku sub-sect of Chan (Zen). After my tour, as I sat in the courtyard talking to a monk who had been singing, the family came through and offered to drop me out at the highway. I accepted, flagged a bus into Putian, and caught a taxi to my hotel.
Stayed Putian -Fengda Hotel
Friday, October 28: This would be a big day--if I pulled it off. First, despite the fact that it was a ways out of town (about 20km), time pressure caused me to take a taxi to Nangshan Cishou Si (9:25-11:50; my #77). The temple was undergoing heavy refurbishment, but between the fine old halls and the shiny new ones, it was a satisfying visit. After walking out of the village to the main road, I waited over an hour for a taxi that then whisked me to my next destination, Guanghua Si (1:25-2:50; my #78). A beautiful old pagoda and staid main compound, with--behind and to the side--several shiny new halls with BIG statues. On my way in, I had noticed a street of statuary-makers, so I walked out that way and had an interesting look around 'til 3:00. Out to the highway and another cab, and I made my trifecta--all three Key Temples in Putian in one day. I reached Guangxiao Si with time to spare (3:20-4:25; my #79). This was a downtown temple, with a very active "social scene"--lots of old men sitting around. The best part of the temple was the two halls at the top with dozens of statues. Out of the temple, found a KFC, then back to the hotel. I had been planning to go to the Mazu Temple in Putian, on the small island where that Daoist sea goddess had been born. Instead, Deru called and coerced me to let a devotee he knew take me to a decidedly uninspiring temple the next day, before catching my bus back to Fuzhou Airport.
Stayed Putian -Fengda Hotel
Saturday, October 29: And so, I visited tiny, shiny Nan Shaolin Si (12:00-12:40), supposedly as important as the real Shaolin Temple up in Henan (but I think not). We went back to Guangxiao Temple for a veg lunch, and I took a bus to Fuzhou Airport for my 7:20-8:45pm flight to Shenzhen and home.
Stayed Putian -Fengda Hotel
Saturday, October 22: My flight to Fuzhou left and arrived astonishingly on time (12:20-1:40) and I was on a bus and in central Fuzhou by 3:00. When I got off the bus, I took a taxi straight to Dizang Si (3:30-4:10; my #70), located in alleyways a couple of hundred meters from the base of Jinjishan ("Gold Chicken Mountain"). Nothing very special in this temple, except that it's said to be one of the oldest in Fujian, supposedly founded in 572. There was a ceremony while I was there; as soon as it was over the main hall was locked and I was politely told the gates were about to be closed, so I walked from there to my hotel (about 1.2 km, carrying my bags) and checked in. Dinner in a steak buffet (without the steak) and home.
Stayed Fuzhou - Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Sunday, October 23: With the help of a particularly kind and persistent desk clerk at my Home Inn (several phone calls per destination to get information), I was able to find transportation for the two furthest-out temples of the trip. (As is my wont, I tried for them first.) So I left the hotel by local bus, heading for Fuzhou's West Bus Station. From there, I took a two-hour ride on a mini-bus--over half of it on a windy mountain road--and arrived in front of Xuefeng Chongsheng Si (12:30-3:30; my #71). Pailou, huge "free-life" pond, Mountain Gate. Despite its remoteness, it seems to be a large, recently-upgraded facility. Vegetable fields to one side, and a cozy compound up the hillside. Out the pailou and across the road, a Guanyin pond a small hermitage (Kumu An). Waited for the same bus, did a reverse commute back to the hotel. Dinner in the dining room. (Buffet breakfast there almost every day.)
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Monday, October 24: After brunch at Subway (one for here, one to go) with info in hand from my "savior," I took a local bus to a crossroads--not even station--and had to flag a passing bus that would stop at my temple. En route I met a teacher with a few girl students, returning from an event in Fuzhou. She said her school was in Shoushan, a place famous for its stone. She and the girls got off at a crossroads before we reached the temple. The temple was, in fact , the terminal, and the bus wouldn't go back down the mountain until 5 pm (I arrived at 11:15), so I had to improvise, as I wanted to see another temple later that day. The first of the day, Linyang Si (11:15-2:15; my #72) was as beautiful and spacious as the one yesterday, and its "free-life pond" was even bigger. Behind the temple, two new halls held lots of new statuary; there was also a new memorial hall outside the gate for a recently-deceased abbot. When I finished, I hung around the gate for about an hour, hoping something would happen. It did! A car full of temple visitors kindly took me down and dropped me near a bus stop. This was the first time I hitch-hiked as a pilgrim. I reached Xichan Si (3:45-6:00; my #73) in time to see the main halls, and the grounds remained open until 7:30 pm. Though a city temple, this one was much larger than Saturday's Dizang Temple. Lots of large halls with large statuary, and the most spacious and elaborate 500 Arhats' Hall I have ever seen--six stories high. Out to a bus, back to the hotel, dinner in.
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Tuesday, October 25: This was a most unusual day. In 2006, I had been fortunate enough to be asked to teach some kids at a remote mountain temple in Ningde, Fujian. One the assistants there was a young monk named Venerable Deru. We lost touch after the week of training, and I was lucky enough to run into him again--in far-away Kunming--in June of 2011, four months or so before this trip. So when I knew I would be coming back to his neighborhood (his temple was in nearby Fu'an), I gave him a call. This morning, he met me at Ningde Station on the new high-speed train line, driving a large SUV that belonged to a devotee--and drove me up to the temple where we had first met, Zhiti Huayan Si (12:30-1:35; my #74). It's fortunate he did: the temple is 19km from the highway, with sketchy bus service. After lunch with my old friend, the temple administrator Venerable Hui Jing, Deru took me on a tour to visit temples--and his monastic friends. We stopped at the base of the mountain where Huayan Si is located, at tiny Shuiyun (Cloud Water) Si (2:15); then into Fu'an to see Zhongde Chan Si 种德禅寺 "the largest temple in Fu'an" (3:05-3:15); Qiyun 栖云寺 (Settle Cloud) Temple, Ven. Deru's home temple (4:10); Tiantang (Heaven Hall) Si (4:50-5:00), one of the most unusual and stylish temples I have ever seen; the top of Tianma Shan ("Heavenly Horse Mountain") (5:10); and finally Xiangshan (Incense Mountain) Si (5:20-6:30), where we had dinner, and afterward tea, with his friend the abbess (and a terrific vegetarian cook) Venerable Ven. Yixiang. A 35km or so drive from Fu'an City to Fu'an Station, a very late train back to Fuzhou, and an expensive taxi to the hotel. (The stations for the high-speed train are usually quite far out of town.)
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Wednesday, October 26: Venerable Deru had arranged to have his brother, Chen Hui, take me to my next destination. And by "take" I mean I met him in his shop, and we took a bus together, and then I figured out the transportation up the hill to the temple. He co-ordinated with Deru by phone to get a monk friend to walk us in (avoiding the 50rmb admission fee) and translated for me once or twice--sort of reluctantly, I think, because English is a struggle for him. Yongquan Si (11:10-2:00; my #75) is beautifully situated on Gu Shan ("Drum Mountain"), said to be named thus because of the sound it makes when heavy rain beats down on it. My "highlight" was the enthusiastic monk, about my age, who kept the library. He wanted to show me everything, with Chen Hui translating. A bus back to the hotel, and packing and preparing for the next day's departure.
Stayed Fuzhou -Home Inn Dongda Road Wenquan
Thursday, October 27: The next temple was between Fuzhou and Putian, where I would stay the night. I took a highway bus as far as Fuqing, the nearest town. Expecting a bus station, I was surprised when it was just a yard, with no services. Another kind young woman--my bus conductor--asked around and got the low-down. She put me on a bus, telling the driver what I needed. He stopped at my transfer point, got out, and told the NEXT driver what I needed. That guy told me where to get off. So great! Until I realized I was at a crossroads, about 5 or 6 km from my destination, and fresh out of buses. There were some dodgy-looking motorcycle drivers, but I decided--luggage and all--to walk it. After trudging 2 or 3 km, I heard a honking behind me, and a wealthy family--mother, father, married son and daughter-in-law--stopped to pick me up. Huangpo Shan Wanfu Si (1:30-3:20; my #76) is the mother temple of Obakusan Mampuku Ji in Uji, Japan (which I have visited); most of the current temple here was built on donations from Japanese devotees. It's the seat of the Obaku sub-sect of Chan (Zen). After my tour, as I sat in the courtyard talking to a monk who had been singing, the family came through and offered to drop me out at the highway. I accepted, flagged a bus into Putian, and caught a taxi to my hotel.
Stayed Putian -Fengda Hotel
Friday, October 28: This would be a big day--if I pulled it off. First, despite the fact that it was a ways out of town (about 20km), time pressure caused me to take a taxi to Nangshan Cishou Si (9:25-11:50; my #77). The temple was undergoing heavy refurbishment, but between the fine old halls and the shiny new ones, it was a satisfying visit. After walking out of the village to the main road, I waited over an hour for a taxi that then whisked me to my next destination, Guanghua Si (1:25-2:50; my #78). A beautiful old pagoda and staid main compound, with--behind and to the side--several shiny new halls with BIG statues. On my way in, I had noticed a street of statuary-makers, so I walked out that way and had an interesting look around 'til 3:00. Out to the highway and another cab, and I made my trifecta--all three Key Temples in Putian in one day. I reached Guangxiao Si with time to spare (3:20-4:25; my #79). This was a downtown temple, with a very active "social scene"--lots of old men sitting around. The best part of the temple was the two halls at the top with dozens of statues. Out of the temple, found a KFC, then back to the hotel. I had been planning to go to the Mazu Temple in Putian, on the small island where that Daoist sea goddess had been born. Instead, Deru called and coerced me to let a devotee he knew take me to a decidedly uninspiring temple the next day, before catching my bus back to Fuzhou Airport.
Stayed Putian -Fengda Hotel
Saturday, October 29: And so, I visited tiny, shiny Nan Shaolin Si (12:00-12:40), supposedly as important as the real Shaolin Temple up in Henan (but I think not). We went back to Guangxiao Temple for a veg lunch, and I took a bus to Fuzhou Airport for my 7:20-8:45pm flight to Shenzhen and home.
Stayed Putian -Fengda Hotel
Trip 13: Henan (October 31-November 5, 2011)
Many of the details of this trip were posted on Facebook. Until I have time to create temple pages here, you might look there (open to all, even without Facebook account).
October 31 (Monday): A leisurely trip to the airport (after picking up more SD cards) for Lila's and my on-time 1:20pm flight to Zhengzhou, Henan (landed around 3:40). Just missed the 4:00 bus to Luoyang, so waited an hour for the 5:00. Bus ride about 2.5 hours; taxi to hotel, checked in, dinner in hotel dining room.
Stayed Home Inn (Luoyang Middle Tanggong Road) every night
November 1 (Tuesday): Up around 8, I had breakfast at hotel buffet. We walked toward the bus station (across from train station) looking for brunch for Lila; at the bus station we researched rides, then ate at KFC. A taxi to Baima Temple (1:20-4:05; my #80) (50rmb ticket) where we spent the rest of the day seeing the temple itself and the Qiyun Pagoda (4:05-4:40) next door. We asked a taxi to take us a couple of kilometers further, where I had a quick look at the remains of the Yongning Temple Pagoda (4:55), and then took the same taxi back to the "Today" mall, where we ate at Babela's Kitchen. Taxied home.
November 2 (Wednesday): I ate in the buffet again, and we took a taxi to Longmen Grottoes (11:15-3:05). After paying the steep 120rmb entry fee, we had a great day wandering south down the west bank of the river, and back up the other side. The grottoes were stunning, but the new, small Xiangshan Temple (3:05-3:50) was not so exciting. We skipped the Bai Juyi garden (former home of a Tang Dynasty poet) because of time. After dawdling awhile longer (3:50-4:15) we took a bus and a taxi to Guanlin Miao (4:55-5:25) (ticket 40rmb), which has a burial mound containing the head of the historical and legendary figure Guan Yu. Buses back to Today Mall, where we ate at Pizza Hut, and a taxi home.
November 3 (Thursday): Buffet for me; taxi to the bus station and bus (about 1 hour 40 minutes, with lots of stops) to Shaolin Temple (11:25-4:05; my #81). 100rmb to get in. The temple was nice enough, but the "Talin" (Pagoda Forest) next door was the best part. To get home we joined a tour bus (5:10-6:30), where we took a taxi to Wanda Plaza for Indian food and an 8:15 viewing of "Rise of the Planet of the Apes." Taxi home.
November 4 (Friday): For various reasons we stayed in today, working on these pages and on picture editing.
November 5 (Saturday): Highway bus back to Zhengzhou (from a different station) and flight back to Shenzhen (18:50-21:10).
October 31 (Monday): A leisurely trip to the airport (after picking up more SD cards) for Lila's and my on-time 1:20pm flight to Zhengzhou, Henan (landed around 3:40). Just missed the 4:00 bus to Luoyang, so waited an hour for the 5:00. Bus ride about 2.5 hours; taxi to hotel, checked in, dinner in hotel dining room.
Stayed Home Inn (Luoyang Middle Tanggong Road) every night
November 1 (Tuesday): Up around 8, I had breakfast at hotel buffet. We walked toward the bus station (across from train station) looking for brunch for Lila; at the bus station we researched rides, then ate at KFC. A taxi to Baima Temple (1:20-4:05; my #80) (50rmb ticket) where we spent the rest of the day seeing the temple itself and the Qiyun Pagoda (4:05-4:40) next door. We asked a taxi to take us a couple of kilometers further, where I had a quick look at the remains of the Yongning Temple Pagoda (4:55), and then took the same taxi back to the "Today" mall, where we ate at Babela's Kitchen. Taxied home.
November 2 (Wednesday): I ate in the buffet again, and we took a taxi to Longmen Grottoes (11:15-3:05). After paying the steep 120rmb entry fee, we had a great day wandering south down the west bank of the river, and back up the other side. The grottoes were stunning, but the new, small Xiangshan Temple (3:05-3:50) was not so exciting. We skipped the Bai Juyi garden (former home of a Tang Dynasty poet) because of time. After dawdling awhile longer (3:50-4:15) we took a bus and a taxi to Guanlin Miao (4:55-5:25) (ticket 40rmb), which has a burial mound containing the head of the historical and legendary figure Guan Yu. Buses back to Today Mall, where we ate at Pizza Hut, and a taxi home.
November 3 (Thursday): Buffet for me; taxi to the bus station and bus (about 1 hour 40 minutes, with lots of stops) to Shaolin Temple (11:25-4:05; my #81). 100rmb to get in. The temple was nice enough, but the "Talin" (Pagoda Forest) next door was the best part. To get home we joined a tour bus (5:10-6:30), where we took a taxi to Wanda Plaza for Indian food and an 8:15 viewing of "Rise of the Planet of the Apes." Taxi home.
November 4 (Friday): For various reasons we stayed in today, working on these pages and on picture editing.
November 5 (Saturday): Highway bus back to Zhengzhou (from a different station) and flight back to Shenzhen (18:50-21:10).
Trip 14: Fujian to Guangdong (January 17-23, 2012)
Regrettably, I did not write this account at the time of my journey. I am reconstructing it from notes a over two years later, so there may be some gaps or even inaccuracies. I will improve it as more information (or a better memory) becomes available.
Tuesday, January 17: 7:45-8:50 flight to Xiamen; taxi from airport dropped me at the Home Inn, so I walked quite a bit, took a bus a ways, and walked some more, seeing ome of the beautiful city of Xiamen. Bus to Nanputuo Si (2:00-4:10, my #82). I tried to get temple food, but everything was closed early; so I walked to the front gate of Xiamen University, across from which was a good Buddhist veg restaurant. Bus back to hotel (in a crappy location, BTW, stuck behind buildings).
Stayed Home Inn (Xiamen Guomao)
Wednesday, January 18: I took a train to Quanzhou, then a taxi to beautiful Kaiyuan Si (8:50-11:20, my #83). He dropped me at a side gate, as the front area is heavily impacted--a narrow lane with a lot of traffic. The two pagodas are gorgeous. But I tore myself away and taxied back to the station. Train again to Jinjiang, and a nightmare taxi ride. The station was so new that only black taxis were serving it, and bus service hadn't developed yet. The driver was obnoxious (smoking, etc.) and had a fake meter plugged into his car's cigarette lighter. He tried to overcharge me, claiming "Shi Happy New Year." I didn't have change, and went into a store across from the temple gates to get some. He wanted 80, I figured 30, but the store owner encouraged me to give him 40 (maybe to get him to stop shouting). In that frame of mind, I entered Longshan Si (12:55-1:30, my #84). It's historically important, but today it's a Daoist temple in transition back to Buddhism. My cab home was a little mini thing; the driver even pointed out that I'd dropped my pen getting in. Price was "as you like"; I offered 40 and he seemed very pleased. Played with teen volunteers in the station as I waited for my train, then back to the hotel (walking distance from train station).
Stayed Home Inn (Xiamen Guomao)
Thursday, January 19: Walked to station, then bus to Zhangzhou Station, taxi (I think?) to Zhangzhou Nanshan Si (11:20-1:00, my #85). This is a beautiful temple, in a large, park-like setting. Lots of new work in it, but plenty of old remainders/reminders. After, walked out on a long village street and caught a bus back to the station, then a bus to Xiamen and a walk home, getting ready to leave tomorrow.
Stayed Home Inn (Xiamen Guomao)
Friday, January 20: I traveled by bus to Chaozhou on the Friday before the Monday Chinese New Year. The bus station was predictably a madhouse; I was lucky to get a ticket at all! (I bought it, and the one back to Shenzhen, when I arrived in Xiamen. The airport has a ticket office for buses and trains, and I did it all at once.) I got to my hotel (I don't remember how) and made plans for my two temples in eastern Guangdong.
Stayed Home Inn (Shantou Zhuchi Road)
Saturday, January 21: It took me four hours--twice the usual time--and four times more money than it should have, to reach Shantou's Lingshan Si (1:50-4:45, my #86). I passed my stop, bussed back, and finally took a cab. On the way out, the local bus worked fine! I missed a few things in the temple, too: like the pagoda behind it, which I only spotted on my way out, and had to trudge back up the hill to see it (then it turned out to be just cinder block anyway). But it was a fairly interesting place, so kinda worth it.
Stayed Home Inn (Shantou Zhuchi Road)
Sunday, January 22: A terrible, cold day-before-New Year's. I suspect Chaozhou's Kaiyuan Si (1:25-3:15, my #87) is a [retty nice place. But the weather was terrible, there was construction going on, and the atmosphere was sort of like the calm before the storm of New Year's visitors. There was practically no one in sight. But the new Guanyin Hall was swell, and there was a nice little hall for Bodhidharma surrounded by the 24 Devas ("Zhu Tian"). I had trouble getting a bus back to Shantou; the clerk in the station said "no buses." So I started walking toward another station, flagged one, and--it pulled into her station to pick up! Thanks for the help, sister? Anyway, it was New Year's Eve; when I got back to Shantou, the one good restaurant I had found was closed, and I ended up grazing in a convenience store. Oh, well.
Stayed Home Inn (Shantou Zhuchi Road)
Monday, January 23: Happy New Year! Travel day by bus back to Shenzhen. Nothing was crowded--I think everyone was hung over.
Tuesday, January 17: 7:45-8:50 flight to Xiamen; taxi from airport dropped me at the Home Inn, so I walked quite a bit, took a bus a ways, and walked some more, seeing ome of the beautiful city of Xiamen. Bus to Nanputuo Si (2:00-4:10, my #82). I tried to get temple food, but everything was closed early; so I walked to the front gate of Xiamen University, across from which was a good Buddhist veg restaurant. Bus back to hotel (in a crappy location, BTW, stuck behind buildings).
Stayed Home Inn (Xiamen Guomao)
Wednesday, January 18: I took a train to Quanzhou, then a taxi to beautiful Kaiyuan Si (8:50-11:20, my #83). He dropped me at a side gate, as the front area is heavily impacted--a narrow lane with a lot of traffic. The two pagodas are gorgeous. But I tore myself away and taxied back to the station. Train again to Jinjiang, and a nightmare taxi ride. The station was so new that only black taxis were serving it, and bus service hadn't developed yet. The driver was obnoxious (smoking, etc.) and had a fake meter plugged into his car's cigarette lighter. He tried to overcharge me, claiming "Shi Happy New Year." I didn't have change, and went into a store across from the temple gates to get some. He wanted 80, I figured 30, but the store owner encouraged me to give him 40 (maybe to get him to stop shouting). In that frame of mind, I entered Longshan Si (12:55-1:30, my #84). It's historically important, but today it's a Daoist temple in transition back to Buddhism. My cab home was a little mini thing; the driver even pointed out that I'd dropped my pen getting in. Price was "as you like"; I offered 40 and he seemed very pleased. Played with teen volunteers in the station as I waited for my train, then back to the hotel (walking distance from train station).
Stayed Home Inn (Xiamen Guomao)
Thursday, January 19: Walked to station, then bus to Zhangzhou Station, taxi (I think?) to Zhangzhou Nanshan Si (11:20-1:00, my #85). This is a beautiful temple, in a large, park-like setting. Lots of new work in it, but plenty of old remainders/reminders. After, walked out on a long village street and caught a bus back to the station, then a bus to Xiamen and a walk home, getting ready to leave tomorrow.
Stayed Home Inn (Xiamen Guomao)
Friday, January 20: I traveled by bus to Chaozhou on the Friday before the Monday Chinese New Year. The bus station was predictably a madhouse; I was lucky to get a ticket at all! (I bought it, and the one back to Shenzhen, when I arrived in Xiamen. The airport has a ticket office for buses and trains, and I did it all at once.) I got to my hotel (I don't remember how) and made plans for my two temples in eastern Guangdong.
Stayed Home Inn (Shantou Zhuchi Road)
Saturday, January 21: It took me four hours--twice the usual time--and four times more money than it should have, to reach Shantou's Lingshan Si (1:50-4:45, my #86). I passed my stop, bussed back, and finally took a cab. On the way out, the local bus worked fine! I missed a few things in the temple, too: like the pagoda behind it, which I only spotted on my way out, and had to trudge back up the hill to see it (then it turned out to be just cinder block anyway). But it was a fairly interesting place, so kinda worth it.
Stayed Home Inn (Shantou Zhuchi Road)
Sunday, January 22: A terrible, cold day-before-New Year's. I suspect Chaozhou's Kaiyuan Si (1:25-3:15, my #87) is a [retty nice place. But the weather was terrible, there was construction going on, and the atmosphere was sort of like the calm before the storm of New Year's visitors. There was practically no one in sight. But the new Guanyin Hall was swell, and there was a nice little hall for Bodhidharma surrounded by the 24 Devas ("Zhu Tian"). I had trouble getting a bus back to Shantou; the clerk in the station said "no buses." So I started walking toward another station, flagged one, and--it pulled into her station to pick up! Thanks for the help, sister? Anyway, it was New Year's Eve; when I got back to Shantou, the one good restaurant I had found was closed, and I ended up grazing in a convenience store. Oh, well.
Stayed Home Inn (Shantou Zhuchi Road)
Monday, January 23: Happy New Year! Travel day by bus back to Shenzhen. Nothing was crowded--I think everyone was hung over.
Trip 15: Chongqing (June 13-18, 2012)
These notes are "bare bones"; for a more complete version, see the account on Facebook until I have time to expand these (open to all, even without Facebook account).
Wednesday, June 13: Late arrival
Stayed Huaman Hotel (Chongqing)
Thursday, June 14: Luohan Si (12:00-2:15; my #88); cable car across river 2:30; Ciyun Si (3:20-4:30; my #89)
Stayed Huaman Hotel (Chongqing)
Friday, June 15: Shuanggui Tang (2:50-4:50; my #90)
Stayed Huaman Hotel (Chongqing)
Saturday, June 16: Travel day to Dazu
Stayed Haitang Xiangguo Hotel (Dazu, Chongqing)
Sunday, June 17: Dazu Baoding Shan (10:00-12:00); Shengshou Si (12:00-1:30)
Stayed Haitang Xiangguo Hotel (Dazu, Chongqing)
Monday, June 18: Dazu Bei Shan (9:00-11:45)
Bus to airport, returned to Shenzhen
Wednesday, June 13: Late arrival
Stayed Huaman Hotel (Chongqing)
Thursday, June 14: Luohan Si (12:00-2:15; my #88); cable car across river 2:30; Ciyun Si (3:20-4:30; my #89)
Stayed Huaman Hotel (Chongqing)
Friday, June 15: Shuanggui Tang (2:50-4:50; my #90)
Stayed Huaman Hotel (Chongqing)
Saturday, June 16: Travel day to Dazu
Stayed Haitang Xiangguo Hotel (Dazu, Chongqing)
Sunday, June 17: Dazu Baoding Shan (10:00-12:00); Shengshou Si (12:00-1:30)
Stayed Haitang Xiangguo Hotel (Dazu, Chongqing)
Monday, June 18: Dazu Bei Shan (9:00-11:45)
Bus to airport, returned to Shenzhen
Trip 16: Anhui (June 20-30, 2012)
These notes are "bare bones"; for a more complete version, see the account on Facebook until I have time to expand these (open to all, even without Facebook account).
Wednesday, June 20: Travel Shenzhen to Jiuhua Shan
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Thursday, June 21: Cable Car to Gu Baijing Tai (11:30-12:15); Tiantai Si (12:55-2:05; my #91); Gu Baijing Tai (prayers) (2:15-2:30); trail down: Guanyin Feng (2:35); Tianqiao Si and Cuiyun An (3:15); Chaoyang An (3:25); Fuxing An (3:50); Changsheng Gudong (4:00); Jixiang Si (4:05); Huiju Si (4:10-4:45; my #92); bottom (5:25)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Friday, June 22: Roushen Dian (11-45-1:00; my #93); Shangchan Tang (1:10-3:30; my #94); trail down including Jingtu An (3:35-3:50); Zhantan Lin (3:55-4:30); Long An (4:30-4:35)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Saturday, June 23: Zhantan Lin (11:50-12:45; my #95); Other temples on way to Cable Car: Tonghui Temple (Chan Lin) and Tianchi Nunnery (An); Feilai Guaynin Feng (1:20); Baisui Gong (1:25-3:00; my #96); Tianchi Si and Big Dizang Office (3:40); Huacheng Si (3:45-4:30; my #97); neighborhood and walk home (4:30-5:50)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Sunday, June 24: Zhiyuan Si (11:10-12:10; my #98); Gate area (12:10-12:15); Ganlu Si (12:30-2:35; my #99); Gate area and Zhiyuan Si (2:45-2:55)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Monday, June 25: Travel to Anqing; Anqing Yingjiang Si (4:40-6:10; my #100) Dinner included; neighborhood walk
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Tuesday, June 26: Qingyuan Si = Sanzu Si (11:45-2:30; my #101)
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Wednesday, June 27: Stayed in (rain); wrote
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Thursday, June 28: Erzu Si
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Friday, June 29: Travel day to Hefei
Stayed Hefei NUBC Business Hotel (Hefei)
Saturday, June 30: Traveled home to Shenzhen
Wednesday, June 20: Travel Shenzhen to Jiuhua Shan
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Thursday, June 21: Cable Car to Gu Baijing Tai (11:30-12:15); Tiantai Si (12:55-2:05; my #91); Gu Baijing Tai (prayers) (2:15-2:30); trail down: Guanyin Feng (2:35); Tianqiao Si and Cuiyun An (3:15); Chaoyang An (3:25); Fuxing An (3:50); Changsheng Gudong (4:00); Jixiang Si (4:05); Huiju Si (4:10-4:45; my #92); bottom (5:25)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Friday, June 22: Roushen Dian (11-45-1:00; my #93); Shangchan Tang (1:10-3:30; my #94); trail down including Jingtu An (3:35-3:50); Zhantan Lin (3:55-4:30); Long An (4:30-4:35)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Saturday, June 23: Zhantan Lin (11:50-12:45; my #95); Other temples on way to Cable Car: Tonghui Temple (Chan Lin) and Tianchi Nunnery (An); Feilai Guaynin Feng (1:20); Baisui Gong (1:25-3:00; my #96); Tianchi Si and Big Dizang Office (3:40); Huacheng Si (3:45-4:30; my #97); neighborhood and walk home (4:30-5:50)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Sunday, June 24: Zhiyuan Si (11:10-12:10; my #98); Gate area (12:10-12:15); Ganlu Si (12:30-2:35; my #99); Gate area and Zhiyuan Si (2:45-2:55)
Stayed Da Zizai Shanzhuang (Jiuhuashan)
Monday, June 25: Travel to Anqing; Anqing Yingjiang Si (4:40-6:10; my #100) Dinner included; neighborhood walk
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Tuesday, June 26: Qingyuan Si = Sanzu Si (11:45-2:30; my #101)
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Wednesday, June 27: Stayed in (rain); wrote
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Thursday, June 28: Erzu Si
Stayed Gelasi Hotel (Anqing)
Friday, June 29: Travel day to Hefei
Stayed Hefei NUBC Business Hotel (Hefei)
Saturday, June 30: Traveled home to Shenzhen
Trip 17: Northern Guangdong (July 22-29, 2012)
These notes are "bare bones"; for a more complete version, see the account on Facebook until I have time to expand these (open to all, even without Facebook account).
Sunday, July 22: Train from the new Shenzhen North Station to Shaoguan; walked to Dajian ("Great Mirror") Si (4:55-5:10) near old station
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Monday, July 23: Bus to Yunmen Si (10:10-12:55, my #102). Walked in Ruyuan to see Wenchang Pagoda (1:50-2:10)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Tuesday, July 24: Bus to Nanhua Si (10:15-1:15, my #103); hiked to Refuge Rock (started at 1:15; there 2:25-2:50)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Wednesday, July 25: Bus to Maba Man site and Zhaoyin Si (10:20-12:25); taxi to Yuehua Si (12:55-1:05; closed); bus to Nanhua Si again (1:45-4:10); Wujin An in Nanhua complex (3:50-4:05)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Thursday, July 26: Bus and taxi to Gufo Dongtian, Lechang (12:40-4:15)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Friday, July 27: Bus to Zhaoqing; outside of Mei An (4:25-4:35)
Stayed Home Inns (Middle Renmin Road) (Zhaoqing)
Saturday, July 28: Mei An again (8:40-9:00); Qingyun Si (10:40-2:10, my #104)
Stayed Home Inns (Middle Renmin Road) (Zhaoqing)
Sunday, July 29: Bus to Guo'en Si, Xinxing (12:35-2:15); Huineng's Birthplace (2:50-3:00)
Stayed Home Inns (Middle Renmin Road) (Zhaoqing)
Monday, July 30: Bus back to Shenzhen
Sunday, July 22: Train from the new Shenzhen North Station to Shaoguan; walked to Dajian ("Great Mirror") Si (4:55-5:10) near old station
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Monday, July 23: Bus to Yunmen Si (10:10-12:55, my #102). Walked in Ruyuan to see Wenchang Pagoda (1:50-2:10)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Tuesday, July 24: Bus to Nanhua Si (10:15-1:15, my #103); hiked to Refuge Rock (started at 1:15; there 2:25-2:50)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Wednesday, July 25: Bus to Maba Man site and Zhaoyin Si (10:20-12:25); taxi to Yuehua Si (12:55-1:05; closed); bus to Nanhua Si again (1:45-4:10); Wujin An in Nanhua complex (3:50-4:05)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Thursday, July 26: Bus and taxi to Gufo Dongtian, Lechang (12:40-4:15)
Stayed Fengyi Fortune Hotel (Shaoguan)
Friday, July 27: Bus to Zhaoqing; outside of Mei An (4:25-4:35)
Stayed Home Inns (Middle Renmin Road) (Zhaoqing)
Saturday, July 28: Mei An again (8:40-9:00); Qingyun Si (10:40-2:10, my #104)
Stayed Home Inns (Middle Renmin Road) (Zhaoqing)
Sunday, July 29: Bus to Guo'en Si, Xinxing (12:35-2:15); Huineng's Birthplace (2:50-3:00)
Stayed Home Inns (Middle Renmin Road) (Zhaoqing)
Monday, July 30: Bus back to Shenzhen
Trip 18: The Central Area (August 4-15, 2012)
These notes are "bare bones"; for a more complete version, see the account on Facebook until I have time to expand these (open to all, even without Facebook account).
Friday, August 5: Travel day to Wuhan by hi-speed train
Stayed Home Inn (Wuhan Guiyuan Temple), Wuhan
Saturday, August 4: Guiyuan Si (11:15-1:20, my #105); Baotong Si (2:20-4:30, my #106)
Stayed Wuhan Home Inn (Wuhan Guiyuan Temple), Wuhan
Sunday, August 5: Yuquan Si (11:30-2:55, my #107)
Stayed Home Inn (Wuhan Guiyuan Temple), Wuhan
Monday, August 6: Travel day, by bus from Wuhan to Jiujiang
Stayed Home Inn (Jiujiang Xunyang Road), Jiujiang
Tuesday, August 7: Wuzu Si (12:45-2:45, my #108)
Stayed Home Inn (Jiujiang Xunyang Road), Jiujiang
Wednesday, August 8: Nengren Si (11:45-1:05, my #109); Donglin Si (3:05-5:30 including nearby temple, my #110)
Stayed Home Inn (Jiujiang Xunyang Road), Jiujiang
Thursday, August 9: Youmin Si (4:55-5:30)
Stayed Home Inn (Nanchang Bayi Square), Nanchang
Friday, August 10: Zhenru Si (12:30-3:05 with walk down mountain, my #111)
Stayed Home Inn (Nanchang Bayi Square), Nanchang
Saturday, August 11: Jingju Si (4:30-6:00, my #112)
Stayed Home Inn (Nanchang Bayi Square), Nanchang
Sunday, August 12: Train to Changsha; Kaifu Si (4:00-6:00, my #113)
Stayed Home Inns (Changsha Stadium), Changsha
Monday, August 13: Lushan Si (path up, 11:45-12:15; 12:15-1:20, my #114); train to Nanyue
Stayed Sanxing House, Nanyue
Tuesday, August 14: Shangfeng Si (10:45-1:30, including climb up and down; my #115); Nantai Si (2:15-3:15, my #116); Fuyan Si (3:20-4:45, my #117); outside of Zhusheng Si (5:55-7:00)
Stayed Sanxing House, Nanyue
Wednesday, August 15: Zhusheng Si (12:10-1:05, my #118); train to Shenzhen
Friday, August 5: Travel day to Wuhan by hi-speed train
Stayed Home Inn (Wuhan Guiyuan Temple), Wuhan
Saturday, August 4: Guiyuan Si (11:15-1:20, my #105); Baotong Si (2:20-4:30, my #106)
Stayed Wuhan Home Inn (Wuhan Guiyuan Temple), Wuhan
Sunday, August 5: Yuquan Si (11:30-2:55, my #107)
Stayed Home Inn (Wuhan Guiyuan Temple), Wuhan
Monday, August 6: Travel day, by bus from Wuhan to Jiujiang
Stayed Home Inn (Jiujiang Xunyang Road), Jiujiang
Tuesday, August 7: Wuzu Si (12:45-2:45, my #108)
Stayed Home Inn (Jiujiang Xunyang Road), Jiujiang
Wednesday, August 8: Nengren Si (11:45-1:05, my #109); Donglin Si (3:05-5:30 including nearby temple, my #110)
Stayed Home Inn (Jiujiang Xunyang Road), Jiujiang
Thursday, August 9: Youmin Si (4:55-5:30)
Stayed Home Inn (Nanchang Bayi Square), Nanchang
Friday, August 10: Zhenru Si (12:30-3:05 with walk down mountain, my #111)
Stayed Home Inn (Nanchang Bayi Square), Nanchang
Saturday, August 11: Jingju Si (4:30-6:00, my #112)
Stayed Home Inn (Nanchang Bayi Square), Nanchang
Sunday, August 12: Train to Changsha; Kaifu Si (4:00-6:00, my #113)
Stayed Home Inns (Changsha Stadium), Changsha
Monday, August 13: Lushan Si (path up, 11:45-12:15; 12:15-1:20, my #114); train to Nanyue
Stayed Sanxing House, Nanyue
Tuesday, August 14: Shangfeng Si (10:45-1:30, including climb up and down; my #115); Nantai Si (2:15-3:15, my #116); Fuyan Si (3:20-4:45, my #117); outside of Zhusheng Si (5:55-7:00)
Stayed Sanxing House, Nanyue
Wednesday, August 15: Zhusheng Si (12:10-1:05, my #118); train to Shenzhen
Trip 19: Shanxi (August 21-September 3, 2012)
These notes are "bare bones"; for a more complete version, see the account on Facebook until I have time to expand these (open to all, even without Facebook account).
Tuesday, August 21: Flight Guangzhou to Datong (1:35-5:50pm); Datong City Walls (7:00)
Stayed Da Tong Yun Gang International Hotel
Wednesday, August 22: Shang Huayan Si (10:00-12:55, my #119); Yuantong Si (1:00-1:05); Yungang Grottoes (1:40-5:40)
Stayed Da Tong Yun Gang International Hotel
Thursday, August 23: Xuankong Si (11:40-12:45); Yingxian Mu Ta (2:35-3:40); Datong City Walls (7:10-7:15)
Stayed Da Tong Yun Gang International Hotel
Friday, August 24: Shanhua Si (12:05-12:55); Central Datong - Screen Wall, Drum Tower, etc (11:45-1:20); Road to Wutai Shan (4:20-6:40)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Saturday, August 25: Jinge Si (10:05-11:05, my #120); Guanyin Dong (11:30-2:30, my #121); Bishan Si (3:00-4:40, my #122)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Sunday, August 26: Dailuo Ding (3:10-6:25 round-trip, my #123)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Monday, August 27: Shifang Tang (10:30-11:20, my #124); Luo Si (11:20-12:15, my #125); Yuanzhao Si (12:15-1:00); Guangzong Si (1:00-1:55, my #126); Pusa Ding (1:55-3:45, my #127); Xiantong Si (3:45-5:40, my #128); Tayuan Si (5:40-6:35, my #129)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Tuesday, August 28: Shuxiang Si (2:25-3:45, my #130); Tayuan Si Revisited (3:55-5:25)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Wednesday, August 29: Prajna Spring (9:45)
Stayed Jinjiang Inn (Taiyuan liuxiang), Taiyuan
Thursday, August 30: Xuanzhong Si (1:00-2:45, my #131); Yingze, Taiyuan walk (6:00-6:15)
Stayed Jinjiang Inn (Taiyuan liuxiang), Taiyuan
Friday, August 31: Chongshan Si (11:55-1:15, my #132); Shaungta or Yongzuo Si (3:00-4:45)
Stayed Jinjiang Inn (Taiyuan liuxiang), Taiyuan
Saturday, September 1: Train from Taiyuan to Shijiazhuang
Stayed Huiwen Hotel, Shijiazhuang
Sunday, September 2: Bailin Si (12:00-1:45); Zhaozhou Bridge (2:00-2:30)
Stayed Huiwen Hotel, Shijiazhuang
Monday, September 3: Longxing Si (1:00-3:40); then to hotel near airport
Stayed Ou Jing Holiday Hotel, Shijiazhuang
Tuesday, August 21: Flight Guangzhou to Datong (1:35-5:50pm); Datong City Walls (7:00)
Stayed Da Tong Yun Gang International Hotel
Wednesday, August 22: Shang Huayan Si (10:00-12:55, my #119); Yuantong Si (1:00-1:05); Yungang Grottoes (1:40-5:40)
Stayed Da Tong Yun Gang International Hotel
Thursday, August 23: Xuankong Si (11:40-12:45); Yingxian Mu Ta (2:35-3:40); Datong City Walls (7:10-7:15)
Stayed Da Tong Yun Gang International Hotel
Friday, August 24: Shanhua Si (12:05-12:55); Central Datong - Screen Wall, Drum Tower, etc (11:45-1:20); Road to Wutai Shan (4:20-6:40)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Saturday, August 25: Jinge Si (10:05-11:05, my #120); Guanyin Dong (11:30-2:30, my #121); Bishan Si (3:00-4:40, my #122)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Sunday, August 26: Dailuo Ding (3:10-6:25 round-trip, my #123)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Monday, August 27: Shifang Tang (10:30-11:20, my #124); Luo Si (11:20-12:15, my #125); Yuanzhao Si (12:15-1:00); Guangzong Si (1:00-1:55, my #126); Pusa Ding (1:55-3:45, my #127); Xiantong Si (3:45-5:40, my #128); Tayuan Si (5:40-6:35, my #129)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Tuesday, August 28: Shuxiang Si (2:25-3:45, my #130); Tayuan Si Revisited (3:55-5:25)
Stayed Huibinlou Hotel, Wutaishan
Wednesday, August 29: Prajna Spring (9:45)
Stayed Jinjiang Inn (Taiyuan liuxiang), Taiyuan
Thursday, August 30: Xuanzhong Si (1:00-2:45, my #131); Yingze, Taiyuan walk (6:00-6:15)
Stayed Jinjiang Inn (Taiyuan liuxiang), Taiyuan
Friday, August 31: Chongshan Si (11:55-1:15, my #132); Shaungta or Yongzuo Si (3:00-4:45)
Stayed Jinjiang Inn (Taiyuan liuxiang), Taiyuan
Saturday, September 1: Train from Taiyuan to Shijiazhuang
Stayed Huiwen Hotel, Shijiazhuang
Sunday, September 2: Bailin Si (12:00-1:45); Zhaozhou Bridge (2:00-2:30)
Stayed Huiwen Hotel, Shijiazhuang
Monday, September 3: Longxing Si (1:00-3:40); then to hotel near airport
Stayed Ou Jing Holiday Hotel, Shijiazhuang