Lingyin Temple (灵隐寺), Hangzhou
This is a slightly longer version of an article published in the Shenzhen Daily on December 5, 2011. This version also has links, photos, and maps not in the published one.
_In the summer of 2009, I discovered a list of 142 Buddhist sites designated "Key Temples" by the central government back in 1983. I immediately set out to start seeing all of them. In this new column, I'll chronicle my adventures, and offer some tips on seeing these temples and the surrounding places of interest in China.
_My first excursion, in August of that year, was to Zhejiang, since I had
friends living in Beilun, a suburb of Ningbo. After spending a night
with them, I hopped a highway bus for the 2-1/2 hour ride to Hangzhou,
the capital of Zhejiang.
_It was also the capital of China from 1127 to 1279, then called Lin'an. Venetian traveler Marco Polo, (allegedly) visiting a little later, called it "the most beautiful and magnificent [city] in the world." And a bit later still, the Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta (who traveled nearly five times farther than Polo) called it simply "the biggest city I have ever seen on the face of the earth."
Not as comparatively large today, but still remarkably beautiful, the city has all the conveniences you'd expect of a provincial capital. Off the highway bus and onto a local one, I skirted the famous West Lake (more about this next time) to my destination, Lingyin Temple (called "Temple of the Soul's Retreat") located southwest of the lake.
Not as comparatively large today, but still remarkably beautiful, the city has all the conveniences you'd expect of a provincial capital. Off the highway bus and onto a local one, I skirted the famous West Lake (more about this next time) to my destination, Lingyin Temple (called "Temple of the Soul's Retreat") located southwest of the lake.
_After purchasing a ticket for the "Lingyin Scenic Area" (40rmb) I enjoyed exploring some of the 345 carved figures in the grottoes across a small stream flowing past the temple's gate. This is the famous "Peak Flown From Afar," named by founding monk Huili, who thought it looked like a small mountain from his home in India had flown all the way to China!
_I purchased my temple ticket (30rmb) and entered the first official temple of my pilgrimage. Inside I was treated to cool gardens, magnificent halls, and some of the finest statues I had yet seen in China. Of particular note was the 500 Arhats' Hall in the shape of a swastika, and the modern statue of Vairocana Buddha in the Huayan Hall.
_Beyond Lingyin Temple are more hills and temples, including Yongfu Temple, and the traditional Fayun Village. I started up the mountain to see more, but unfortunately my time was limited, as I had one more temple to see on this day trip to Hangzhou, a city definitely worth a few days' stay.
MAPS
The following images were stolen from Google Maps. The "live" version can be found here in the satellite view.